Roadtrip from Chiang Mai to Phayao and Nan
With the borders still closed for tourists, but the country opened for locals, we decided to go on a road trip. Chiang Mai and surrounding provinces offer endless road trip opportunities. This time we travel to a part of Thailand less visited by foreign tourists. Phayao and Nan province. While these provinces are close to Chiang Mai, they lack the tourist hordes but are very popular for the Thais from Bangkok looking for fresh mountain air. The famous winding road ‘Thanon Loy Fa’ (floating road) in Nan province is one of the highlights for motorbike riders and very scenic to do by car as well.
Day 1 - Chiang Mai to Phayao
Our first destination for this trip is Phayao. You can drive here following the highway South to Lampang and then North to Phayao, but this is not the road we took. We wanted a more scenic option, so we took the 118 to Chiang Rai and turned right on the 120 at Mae Kachan Village, just after the hot springs. The hot springs are a perfect coffee stop. Note that there is construction going on at the 118 road, so large parts of the way are unpaved.
The quiet 120 road takes you through the mountains and jungles of Doi Luang National Park with some gorgeous views of Phayao Lake in the distance. The lake is where we recommend spending the night. We stayed at Doi Ing Dao Homestay. A lovely little homestay with views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. They offer free bikes for rent, which are very useful with the kilometers long well-kept bicycle paths around the lake. There are loads of restaurants and bars around the lake, mainly catering to Thai tourists, so the food is fantastic if you like Thai food.
Day 2 - Phayao to Pua (Nan Province)
After a good night sleep and a delicious Thai rice-porridge breakfast, it was time to move on to our next stop, Pua, in Nan province. It is possible to follow the highway to Pua, but we wanted a more scenic option, so we took the 1148 through Doi Phu Langka National Park. A fun route with loads of viewpoints and windy roads in excellent condition. We did a coffee stop at Magic Mountain Coffeeshop, and we highly recommend it, good coffee, fantastic views. From the coffee shop, it took us another hour and a half to reach our next homestay in Pua. We stayed at Tanong Home Stay, in the middle of the rice fields. A great experience and fully booked with Thai tourists, so we recommend booking ahead, especially during the weekends.
For dinner, they serve a typical Northern Thai chili paste set with vegetables, sticky rice, and Sai Ua sausage to dip in the paste. Delicious!
Day 3 - Pua to Bo Klua - The Floating Road
This day was the highlight of the trip for us. We took the ‘Thanon Loy’ or Floating Road (1256), a windy narrow road crossing through Doi Phu Kha National Park. You can see the road curling up the hills in front of you with very steep drops at some points. There are a few unpaved parts, but even though it was the rainy season, we didn’t have any trouble driving here. The entrance to the national park is free, and there are some well-kept viewpoints, trails, and campsites with bathroom facilities. (30 Baht per night, if you bring your tent)
We planned to spend the night outside the park at the Saphan Waterfall just North of Bo Klua Village. Bo Klua Village is famous throughout Thailand for its salt wells. You can visit multiple salt wells and see the artisanal process of making salt and buy a few bags to bring home. The village itself doesn’t have much accommodation, but if you drive eight Kilometer north of the town to the Saphan Waterfall, you will find a valley with stunning views over the rice paddies. Prices for a simple hut or tent are expensive here (2000 Baht+), but the scenery makes it more than worth it.
We stayed at Saiwaree Resort (ไทรวารี รีสอร์ท), a lovely place right by the river. From your bamboo hut porch, you can see the rice-paddies and Luang Prabang Mountain range. (Laos Border) Incredible!
Day 4 - Bo Klua to Chiang Mai
It is the last day of our trip and the longest day on the road ahead of us. After spending the morning gazing at the scenery, we got into the car and started our journey back to Chiang Mai. We took the scenic 1081 road from Bo Klua to Nan City. Again a fantastic route with countless viewpoints and coffee stops. We had lunch at a local Thai restaurant in Nan and continued our journey to Phrae, Lampang, and then finally made it back to Chiang Mai. We took the highway on the way back, so it was a lot faster.
Tips and tricks
We do not recommend this road trip to beginners. Rent a car, or if you have the experience, go by a big bike or cross motor. No scooter! Phayao and Nan are not used to get many foreign tourists and cater mainly to Thais. You will have a truly local experience here, which means: Real Thai food and no English. Get ready to use Google Translate a lot. :)
Did you get excited about making a trip like this? Do not hesitate to send us a message if you have questions or need any help. Safe travels!